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Breathe easy, Baldwin is on the job.
Air is
necessary for successful combustion in your engine. In fact, for efficient
combustion, a modern diesel engine requires several thousand times as much
air as it does fuel. Clean air – air almost 100% pure – is critical to
engine survival and vital to its performance.
If you add a turbocharger to your engine, you may
need to make changes to the intake ducting. Turbocharged engines require
even more free-flowing clean air, 750 cubic feet per minute or more.
Naturally aspirated engines demand about 20% less, but still these engines
can require up to 15,000 gallons of air for every gallon of fuel. In
either case the induction system (ducting, hoses, and reducers) brings
outside air to the engine.
- The system should have enough intake capacity to
meet engine requirements for air flow, avoiding sharp bends or
constrictive ducting.
- It should be installed in a clean location, away
from exhaust flow, road grime, and splash.
- It should be vented to remove airborne moisture.
Air may flow into the engine through a
series of components:
- an air-inlet hood to eliminate moisture.
- a pre-cleaner that will typically remove 80 to 90%
of all airborne contaminants.
- an air-filter housing.
- an ancillary transfer ducting. Three factors
determine the proper size of the air filter to be installed:
- the amount of air flow required for efficient
combustion.
- the amount of restriction (resistance to air flow)
caused by the filter.
- the amount of dirt the filter will need to hold to
allow for a reasonable change interval.
Nearly all filters use pleated cellulose (paper) media.
Different formulations of cellulose, resins, and chemical additives meet
specialized needs for nonflammability, for example, or for moisture
resistance. The pleats in Baldwin air filters are strong, precisely
separated, and stabilized.
Baldwin uses two proven methods to separate and
stabilize filter pleats.
- PermaPleat® – an embossing process that builds
dividers between pleats to prevent bunching and to ensure uniform air flow.
- Beading – a continuous bead of adhesive around the
circumference of the filter´s metal outer wrap, locking the pleat tips
in place and preventing movement.
Most
engine manufacturers specify minimum initial efficiency of at least 98.5%.
On first reading, this figure seems very high. Remember though, that dirt
in any amount can be harmful to your engine.
Air Filter
elements.
The Air Filter element establishes a barrier for the
separation of airborne contaminants, allowing only clean air to enter the
engine. Air filter elements fall into four broad
categories:
- Automotive. Both round and panel designs, with
molded ends.
- Heavy-Duty Primary. Usually with metal ends,
available in both PA (standard) and LL (long-life) models.
- Heavy-Duty Secondary. Used to seal out dirt while
the primary filter is being changed.
- Radial Seal. With molded ends and a reinforced
closed end - characterized by ease of service.
Maximum
efficiency, mile after mile.
Most Baldwin heavy-duty air
filters have minimum initial efficiencies approaching 99%. Then, as dirt
particles begin to accumulate in the filter media, those particles
decrease the size of the media's openings, making it more difficult
still for even the smallest particles to pass through. As a result, the
media's efficiency has actually been increased.
- Heavy-Duty Primary Media routinely achieve initial
efficiencies of 98.5% and higher; as the filter loads with dirt, the
accumulative efficiency of the media is normally 99.90% or higher.
- Heavy-Duty Secondary Media typically achieve an
accumulative efficiency of 85% to 95%. Engine manufacturers also specify
the "maximum allowable initial restriction." Baldwin filters meet all
these manufacturers´ requirements.
Pure Performance: tested time & again
SAE
J726, the industry standard for air filtration, determines the rating for
all Baldwin Air Filters. Per this SAE spec, the most commonly reported
data addresses longevity and efficiency.
Baldwin Air Filters mean pure performance, delivering
the clean air that powers your engine now, and extends its useful life
thousands and thousands of miles down the road.
Servicing your air filter: why, when, and
how.
There are operational signs that an air filter has become
completely plugged. The engine begins to lose power, and fuel consumption
increases. Black smoke may blow from the exhaust stack. Continued
operation with a plugged air filter may very well damage the engine.
It´s impossible to determine, just by looking, when
air filters should be changed. An element that looks relatively clean may
be almost totally plugged with ultra-fine particles from exhaust smoke or
air pollutants.
On the other hand, a filter that looks dirty may
still have many hours of useful life. Remember that until maximum
acceptable restriction is reached, the accumulation of dirt in the filter
actually adds to its efficiency.
A better
way.
Baldwin recommends use of restriction gauges as an
integral part of your filter maintenance program. Now standard on many
different types of equipment, these gauges measure the amount of vacuum
created when air is pulled through the filter, measuring the buildup of
dirt from a new filter´s installation throughout its useful life. (Check
the manufacturer's recommendations for each engine.) If you´re not
currently using restriction gauges, you really should reconsider. A
typical gauge costs less than a new filter element. The payback is
immediate:
- Fewer filter servicings and reduced labor costs.
- Reduced risk of damage from over-servicing.
- Less downtime and longer engine life.
Learning from your old
filters.
Before disposing of old air filters, always inspect
them carefully. Their appearance will tell you much about the performance
of an entire air-induction system.
- An accumulation of black, oily soot might mean
that the air intake is located too close to the exhaust. Consider
relocation.
- An accumulation of dirt on the clean side of the
filter element might indicate a split in the filter media. Also,
determine if the end seal is being bypassed or if a gasket is leaking.
Do not attempt to reuse the filter.
- Rust on the filter´s metal parts can mean that
water is being drawn in with the air. Again, check the location of the
intake. Ensure that the water-venting ports in the induction system are
clean and free of obstruction.
An Important Caution: Baldwin does not recommend the
cleaning of air filter elements. Since all contaminants cannot be removed,
service intervals become progressively shorter. Further, the cleaning
process might damage the filter, leading to engine damage as well.
Baldwin Radial Seal Air Filters. . . Designed For
Performance
- Heavy-Duty Radial Seal Gasket formed from special
nitrile rubber compound. Will not degrade under temperature extremes,
changes in restriction or vibration.
- Flexible outer edges allow deflection for easy
insertion and removal in housings which have minimum clearance.
- Special Lugs hold filter securely in place to
prevent vibration.
- PermaPleat® Construction provides even pleat
spacing to prevent bunching and ensure maximum element life.
- Spiral Glue Binding provides added pleat stability
to optimize media effectiveness.
- Heavy-Duty End Cap Construction. Center portion
specially reinforced to prevent constant flexing and potential failure
during changes in intake pressure.
- More Filtration Surface is provided by using a
special plastisol binder which does not extend into the path of air
flow.
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